Mouth-watering kebabs, scented biryani, and whipped, ethereal desserts.
The metropolis in India's north of Lucknow has consistently been a dream destination for epicures, with locals and visitors equally praising its remarkable cuisine.
Worldwide Recognition
Recently, UNESCO honored it as a Creative City of Gastronomy – placing it on a select group of international urban centers and kindling hopes that it will highlight Lucknow's exceptional food. With this title, it joins a international community of over 400 metropolises across over 100 countries committed to promoting "innovation as a catalyst of sustainable urban development".
The accolade "is a testament to its centuries-old culinary traditions and lively culinary scene," as stated by a official from Unesco's Regional Office for South Asia.
Lucknow is merely the second Indian city – after Hyderabad, which was selected in 2019 – to find a place in this prestigious list of 70 cities around the world.
A Metropolis Shaped by Cuisine
The honor for this time-honored city arrives as hardly a shock to its residents or passionate food lovers. Many echo the view that it is "better late than never".
With the UNESCO accolade, this cherished, chaotic, and eclectic city – the administrative center of India's most populous state – is now in the global gaze for what has consistently characterized its heart: an profound love for food.
"'What will be cooked, how will it be cooked' is a constant dialogue from morning until night in many homes," states a local cultural expert. "And you are truly judged by the excellence of food that is produced in your kitchen."
A Royal Culinary Legacy
The City of Nawabs – as it's popularly called after its 18th and 19th-century wealthy Muslim rulers – is famed for its tender kebabs and a singular take on biryani that were conceived, evolved, and elevated to sublime levels in their royal kitchens.
These imperial kitchens were hubs of gastronomic creativity, merging Iranian and indigenous Indian styles to create what became known as the culinary tradition of Awadh.
It was during this time that Lucknow's renowned kebabs were developed. Legend has it that the mutton galouti was invented to cater to an ageing nawab who had lost his teeth. His chefs minced the meat with papaya, saffron, and spices and made it so silky that it required no chewing.
But perhaps the most significant contribution of the chefs of Awadh was the slow-cook Dum pukht technique, where food is prepared on a low, slow heat, with the container's cover tightly closed with dough.
A Diverse Culinary Landscape
In addition to the famous kebabs and biryani, the culinary masters also created a repertoire of dishes that included kormas (rich curries), sheermal (saffron-infused flatbread), and shahi tukda (a decadent bread pudding).
However, Lucknow is not only about kebabs and biryani – the region is also a dream for plant-based eaters.
The local traditionally vegetarian community's cuisine not only showcases fresh harvests but also provides the city its highly curated Indian desserts, sweets, and unique street food, like chaat – spicy fried snacks.
Hidden Gems and Legacy Eateries
Almost on every corner, there are tiny kiosks and carts – lesser-known delights that are wildly favored by the locals.
In the heart of the city of Hazratganj, huge crowds start assembling from the crack of dawn at a legendary tea stall to get a steaming cup of milky masala chai, presented in clay glasses, along with pillowy soft buns slathered with hand-churned white butter.
In the morning, one can visit a unpretentious joint situated in the old city area of Aminabad. Almost 150 years after it was founded, the place is still in great demand for its freshly fried kachoris (fried bread stuffed with lentils) and jalebis (crispy, syrup-soaked sweets).
Safeguarding a Culinary Heritage
The city also presents special treats of the season, such as makkhan malai, a cloud-like dessert available in the winter. The method of making it is precise and complicated. The vendor beats the milk and then leaves it out at night, allowing the nighttime moisture to give it its incredible airy feel.
On cold mornings, street vendors can be seen in old city areas like Aminabad and Chowk. A number of but express concern that their children are unwilling to master the skill.
A renowned chef from Lucknow has noted that the city's profound food legacy positions it at the very pinnacle of the Indian street food experience. The real value from the UNESCO recognition, however, will occur only if Lucknow can now build recognition about its hidden eateries.
Every dish in Lucknow has a narrative – shaped by family-run food businesses, from humble street carts to busy restaurants, and secret family recipes.
The global recognition, it is hoped, will motivate more people worldwide to learn these narratives and experience the city to delight in the gastronomic treasures of Lucknow.